Ah, Iraq, the cradle of civilization, where history literally springs from the ground! Amidst golden domes and towering minarets, there's an energy that combines the ancient and the modern in a heady mix. Don't be fooled by its desert heart though, it nurtures the green banks of the Tigris and Euphrates like a seasoned poet. And, if you're lucky, you might just stumble upon a warm cup of chai served with a side of good old Middle-Eastern hospitality.